I could go to New Orleans once or twice a year just to eat and listen to the music. I know, in America, that is not an original thought. In fact, a lot of people go there every year, just for that. It’s a little strange that I went most of my adult life without going to NOLA just once, then in the past 7-8 years, I’ve been five times. Plus being in New Orleans feels like you are visiting a foreign country. There is no other place like it in America, and no place with such a rich, cross-cultural history. I mean, Cajuns and Creoles live there now, thanks to the French, Spanish, English, Portuguese and Dutch pirates casting about in the early 18th Century. The oldest bar in America, Jean Lefitte’s Blacksmith Shop, founded 1740, and is there on the north end of Bourbon Street. The word “unique” was created to describe this blacksmith shop.
At this point and if you are remotely paying attention, by the third visit you know to go to Mother’s Restaurant, established in 1938 with a claim on its sign: “World’s Best Baked Ham.” For reasons unknown, I have not eaten Mother’s ham in the three or four times I have been there. Come to think of it, I know why. How can one resist the combo Po’ Boy sandwich, with oysters and shrimps, and a bowl of red beans and rice? That is what I had with my date on the recent visit, plus a platter of fried blue crabs. These little guys that are a little bigger than the palm of your hand when opened. Enjoy with fresh-squeezed lemon, vinegar, and hot sauce — man that’s eating!
Some of the other go-to places, Cochon and Emeril’s, are good options if you have the nights, but what you don’t want to miss on a visit to New Orleans is dinner at the best restaurant in town.
Located in a historic 19th century French-Creole building in New Orleans’ Central Business District, Restaurant August is a Contemporary Creole restaurant creating unique dishes with a focus on Louisiana ingredients and inspired by classical training and cooking techniques. Upon entering, you can feel the richness of the place, with original architectural details, hardwood floors, soaring columns, mahogany paneling and antique mirrors.
My first father-in-law had a saying about restaurants: “You can’t eat ambiance,” meaning, the only thing that counts when eating out is the food on your plate. While that is largely true, the right ambiance can generate an appetite for sophisticated food, wine, company and conversation. August does that for me.
The first time I ate there, three or four years ago, I was traveling with one of my subcontractors and it was a real estate conference. We were there to have fun together, eat and drink too much, and prospect for new business. It’s always a winning combination. Anyway, I had reservations for four at the restaurant featured in this post, but only my friend and I were going to dinner. When I go to a new city, I research the best restaurants in town and make reservations in advance. If I am going for business, especially a conference, I make the reservation for a couple extra, in case someone, or a pair, wants to join in the dining experience. Thus, I had two extra seats at my table, and a primetime reservation, 7:30. I was sitting in the lobby of the hotel near the Concierge desk, reading a newspaper, when a hotel guest was going over dinner reservation options with the Concierge on duty. Nothing was available at the top three or four restaurants in town. I could tell by listening that the lady putting the Concierge to work was a food aficionado. She dressed well, late 50s, put together, attractive enough, and was determined to land a fine meal that night in New Orleans. I could hear the Concierge on the phone, then speaking to the lady.
“No ma’am, nothing is available at any of these restaurants until 9:30. I’m sorry.”
I walked up to the guest and Concierge, and said:
“Excuse me ma’am but I have a reservation for four at August, 7:30 this evening, and only my marketing partner and I are going. We are both straight men, and neither of us are ax murderers. In fact, we don’t even own axes. Would you and I presume, a friend, partner or spouse that you are traveling with, like to join us?”
Her facial reaction exhibited surprise, pleasure and a little fear, all at once.
She smiled and said:
“That is a lovely offer. If you don’t mind, may I ask my husband? I think he is in the bar next door. If you can wait here a minute I will be right back.”
And so this couple from Santa Fe, New Mexico, joined us for dinner that night. The gentleman was in his 60s and in good shape. It’s fair to assume they were rich, as they had been spending some time at their home in the Hamptons and the lady wanted a splendid meal in New Orleans before they flew, private jet, back to New Mexico. They were in NOLA for only that night and my reservation was their good karma. I can’t remember their names right now and would not publish them if I did, but we had a fine time.
After introductions, which included my friend and me sharing our enthusiasm for our visit earlier that day to the World War II museum, our gentlemen guest said:
“If it is ok with you fellas, I’d like to propose that we split the tab on dinner but I get to buy the wines.”
It was an offer we couldn’t refuse.
The first bottle came, a French Chardonnay, and it was so good that it is what my friends at Kermit Lynch call “gulpable.” Well that is more or less what my friend did, knocking back the first glass in very short order, perhaps just under 5 minutes. Upon which he exclaimed:
“Damn, that’s the best white wine I have ever had!”
“Well good,” said our new friend and wine host, “because the bottle cost almost $400.”
I was in mid-sip and I strongly resisted the urge to spit my wine out in a laughing fit. As much laughter that there had been in the previous two days and nights, this was the funniest thing I heard in months. That night, with four bottles of wine shared between the four of us along with seven menu items from the kitchen (the other three were all red and equally good), was easily one of the best evenings of my life.
On this recent visit, we started with Scallops and snap peas, and a nice French Chablis. New friends from Barcelona, Cristina and Ernesto, joined us. They are lovely people, she, I think in her late 40s while he is early 50s. Maybe they are both in their early 50s. Good looking and successful in business (her commercial real estate, him the Chairman of Toyota Europe – a small job!), we had the sense we were dining with European, and in this case, Spanish, Aristocrats. Not that we were in awe of them, or that they were pompous. No, not at all. We were all equals and our children are of similar ages… five between the four of us and all in their 20s.
For a second dish we had seared duck breast on creamy grits. Our foursome had been to a cocktail reception before dinner and had knocked back a few cocktails, so we held off on ordering a second bottle of wine. But the glaze with the duck mandated that I have something to drink with it, so I had a glass of a French burgundy. Both dishes were delicious. It was satisfying when Ernesto said to me: “You know Gary we have been here (New Orleans) for four days and the food has been good, but not great, and the portions very large. This was just right. Elegant, delicious.”
It was fun night and with people that I will remember now, as I think they are new friends and that we will visit them in Barcelona. Charming. That is the word for Cristina and Ernesto. They are charming people. And at the moment, we are all living charmed lives.