San Francisco

We spent the Christmas holiday doing local fun things, making food and sometimes eating out with mixed results on both fronts. The highlights, however, were clearly the roasted duck legs braised with mixed vegetables on Christmas Eve, and the tailgate picnic from the back of my Volvo in the parking lot of Indian Springs Resort in Calistoga on New Years Eve. I have been going to Indian Springs, aka “the World’s Biggest Hot Tub,” since the early 2000s and usually around my birthday in February. We have tried the resort in spring and early summer and it’s only worth a winter-time visit when the hot mineral water can be truly appreciated. This time we just booked massages and bought day passes for the pool. It was a glorious winter day – not a cloud in the sky and 43 degrees, and it was the final day of the year.

On the way in to town for our late morning massages at the resort, we stopped by Buster’s to pick up grilled St. Louis ribs and BBQ chicken with sides of coleslaw and potato salad. After some pool time and massages, we went to the parking lot and ate the meat and sides room temperature. Messy and delicious! The greatest disappointment was the Prime Rib on Christmas. I made it right, and it was a great cut of meat, but for the money, time and trouble I would just as well do with grilling Snake River ribeye’s on the Weber, with charcoal and mesquite wood. The meat cooks all the way through on both sides and there are no leftovers. I made a pretty good ribeye hash last night, however, with the leftovers after working for 30 minutes or so defatting the two-bone rib roast. I got the recipe from Mark Bittman in his book, How to Cook Everything. It’s one of the most useful cookbooks on the market, in my opinion.

The most fun meal of the holiday was at Ristorante Milano on Pacific Avenue in the Russian Hill neighborhood of old San Francisco. We went in to the city for a night a couple days after Christmas, on a Monday, when most of the go-to restaurants were closed. Yet we scored with Milano, a place that our cocktail server recommended when we went to the grand Fairmont Hotel at the top of the hill where California and Powell cross. I thought it was a good idea to ask a local where she would go for Italian and she recommended two spots, both in Russian Hill, and booked us a table at Milano, which is presumably owned by a man from Milan, Italy. The owner was certainly Italian and had the restaurant for 32 years, all in the same location.

The dining room was small, intimate, and could only seat 24 people or so with the 8-9 tables in the place. We were seated at a two-top in the middle of what amounts to a row of tables, adjacent to the kitchen. It’s the kind of place you find in big cities where the rents are expensive and the tables close enough to one another that it is impossible not to hear the conversations going on at the next table. In such a case I am sometimes tempted to say things to my dining partner like, “do you think we should hit the bank in full daylight or take out the Brinks truck when it arrives for pick up.” I wonder if I would get a knock on the door the next day. But no point in getting people worked up needlessly so I refrain and make polite talk, avoiding politics and pornography. Interesting grouping, those two subjects, aren’t they?

Anyway we checked the wine list and quickly selected a Tenuta Di Arcento, a 2019 Classic Chianti. The wine was delicious though it was colder than it should be. I held it in my hands for minutes trying to get it to a warmer temperature. As we looked at the menu – playing tourists for a day, both of us had had fish and chips and fish tacos at Fisherman’s Wharf in the afternoon and weren’t starving, yet did want bowls of pasta and roasted or steamed vegetables, I noted the music, which was horn-based and I don’t know how to describe the genre, but did, saying it sounds like music in a Woody Allen movie. Clarinet for sure. You know the sound. Before we ordered food a group of six were seated next to us and they were an eclectic group, featuring a man that could have been a commercial real estate broker or homebuilder, seemingly his wife, who was dressed in nice clothing that had a whiff of hippy to it that might have been purchased at an interesting and very high-end second-hand store. Both Caucasian and north of 55 easily. There was a young white man, 30ish, and a young Asian woman in her late 20s. They might have been a couple – he, the son of the older white couple and his Asian girlfriend. Then there were two Asian woman, one attractive and late 40s or early 50s and the other even more attractive and late 30s. The older one might have been the young Asian woman’s mother, and the other a family friend. They were all clearly close and enjoyed each other and it reminded me that we were in a real city where diversity is commonplace, unlike the suburbs and hinterlands where ethnic groups tend to stay close to their respective tribes. Even so, the blending of people and ages contributed to the Woody Allen theme… it is something that you might see in one of his movies, most if not all of which are very urban and urbane in terms of the movie set. Also, his movies tend to center on relationships, and interesting ones at that, with complexities, nuances, perhaps a little controversy, sexuality…. all the good stuff!

Just before ordering pasta (I had the spaghetti with lamb meatballs while my date went with a pasta and mushrooms dish with ground pork and we shared a plate of perfectly cooked mixed vegetables of broccoli rabe, asparagus, zucchini and peppers), two young women were seated at the two-top next to us. It wasn’t long before the one next to me addressed my date and said, accurately, that she had beautiful hazel eyes. That got the conversation going. The young ladies were tech worker colleagues from a previous company. The gal on the bench seating, opposite of me and next to my date, was a cute blonde, looking straight out of the Midwest, Iowa or Wisconsin maybe. We’ll call her Alexa (not her real name). The friendlier and more talkative of the two – Kimberly (not her real name), was also attractive but in a different way. She had a great personality and was enthusiastic about life, and also a food nut with a blog, I think. She certainly took photos of all the plates their table received. Kimberly asked about our Chianti, which we fully endorsed, so I asked one of the waiters to bring over a couple of wine glasses so they could taste it. He more or less ignored me and moments later the proprietor showed up and with his back to my date and I, took the wine order from our new young friends. I guess he needs to hustle up more wine sales. Regardless they ordered the same bottle and when served, the four of us raised our glasses and toasted the New Year.

Plates of food arrived at both tables and the conversation heated up as if we had planned to meet at the restaurant and catch up on our lives. On the other side of us… the urbane six-top, they were getting louder and more jovial as food and wine was consumed. All in good fun. We were out in a crowded tiny restaurant and just living life!

I can’t say that the conversation between us and Kimberly/Alexa was getting flirty but was getting warmer and more familiar, when my date took a leave from the table for the restroom. It was then that Kimberly asked for one of my business cards. I answered that I would be happy to give her one if my date did not object. When my date returned to the table I asked in a low voice if she would object if Kimberly got one of my cards, and rather than reply to me she announced to Kimberly that it wouldn’t be a problem and said something else that I don’t remember, but Kimberly’s reply was a little defensive, saying “oh don’t you worry you are the queen bee and besides, he lives in Santa Rosa.” Santa Rosa! I wondered if the implication was that I resided in a farming community or some other version of “hick town” or that I was merely geographically unfriendly (GU to players!) and that side visits ostensibly for romance would not be possible when you are separated by 55 miles and have to cross a bridge (the Golden Gate!) to connect.

Oh the weakness of the male mind, in this case, mine, when that little exchange allowed me to enter the realm of fantasy and think, for a moment, that I was about to end up in a foursome in which not a single golf ball is involved! Me and the three lovely ladies.

It was about then that I had the thought, and mumbled: “We are in a Woody Allen movie.”

All three of the women looked at me and asked: “What did you say?”

But not in a disbelieving way…they simply had not heard me.

“Nothing,” I said. “The music in this place just reminds me of a Woody Allen movie.”

Acorn

Steven Rednikowski made a name for himself as a chef in Boulder, CO, with Oak at fourteenth. His new place in Denver, Acorn, is located in the 1880’s foundry that’s been converted to a high-end food court, or “epicurean marketplace” in Denver’s emerging hipster neighborhood, River North District. I found this place after doing some research on Denver’s burgeoning food scene, and Denver.eater.com put Acorn squarely in its “Essential Restaurant” listing, citing the eatery for its “hottest new American cuisine.”

His website describes the style of food as “eclectic, contemporary American cooking in an approachable, family-friendly format.” The final phrase of that description, “family-friendly format,” is code for small plates, shared plates etc. And the food is fucking good!

Rednikowski is no overnight sensation. The resume – started in the business at 15 in a local pizzeria in Upstate New York, graduated to a culinary school in Schenectady, NY, moved to the City and landed a gig in 2000 at Le Cirque, followed by a stint at three Michelin-starred, Jean Georges. After that he moved west in 2002, first with a job at Little Nell in the iconic Aspen, CO, before taking an irresistible job in the Boulder, CO kitchen Frasca Food and Wine when Executive Chef and Co-Owner Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson opened that restaurant. Staying in Colorado continuously was not in the cards at the time for Rednikowski. Instead, in 2006 he moved to Napa, CA to work under Chef Douglas Keane at the two-Michelin-starred Cyrus restaurant, only to return to Aspen two years later for the Executive Sous Chef job at Little Nell Hotel.

Rednikowski had met his Acorn business partner, Bryan Dayton, when the two were paired up at Frasca in Boulder and Dayton was managing the bar. In 2010 the duo got their dream jobs as owners, when they opened Oak to rave reviews and critical acclaim. Central to their food concept was an oak-wood fired oven and grill – a kitchen tool that is prominently featured at Acorn, which opened in 2013.

To this diner, the nearly 4 years since opening Acorn has served Rednikowski and Dayton very well, as my visit to Acorn one warm night in early July was a flawless evening of eating and drinking.

Flying solo, I sat at the bar, of course. Yet before sitting I checked out the vast interior of the old Foundry. A Mexican restaurant is across the way from Acorn. Some guys that had success with a food truck made the switch to a full-service place. There’s a bar in the back of the building – lots of craft beer, as expected. Craft beer may be the only “boutique” industry in Colorado that is bigger than marijuana. There’s a butcher shop, wine bar, charcuterie store. There were also young people making some sort of ice cream sandwich toward the front the building when I was there.

In addition to the “bar bar,” where I sat, there is a “chef’s bar” where the line cooks work, and the aforementioned oak-fired oven and grill resides.

In keeping with the theme of ‘craft beer’ for more spirited types, the bar did not have the usual kind of vodkas I drink – mainstream brands. But it did have a locally made vodka that naturally caught my eye, called Woody Creek. The last place I lived in the Aspen area was a mostly finished solar house on 4 acres on Little Woody Week, and I was neighbors with the gonzo journalist, Hunter S. Thompson. I ordered the Woody Creek double on the rocks with a splash of soda, NFL – my new standard (No Fucking Lime, No Fucking Lemon). If the vodka is any good, let’s taste it!

From my seat at the bar, I looked past the bartenders to a little outdoor patio and a nice sunset right around 9 pm. This industrial zone is undergoing a lot of construction – mostly loft-style apartments. This is a new hotel being built next to the Source.

The night I was there, Acorn offered 18 small plate dishes. Immediately, I recognized the problem with dining alone at a place like this – I would only be able to sample 3 or 4 of these yummy nibbles. One item fairly leapt at me off the menu, which I knew I would start with, whereas I studied the rest of the menu over my cocktail, using the process of elimination to decide what might be my second, third, and fourth (if I had room) plates for dinner.

I started with the Hamachi Crudo (Hamachi Crudo – passion fruit vinaigrette, avocado, cucumber, Fresno pepper, cilantro), with a second cocktail. The cold vodka paired well with this dish, which was perfect in so many ways. The fish was very fresh, avo just right, acidity and snap from the Fresno chili in complete harmony – and the portion was amazingly generous. No skimping on core ingredients here. And for a California dude, the price of this dish, at $14, was difficult to get over. Back home in San Francisco, this plate would have easily sold for $26, maybe $28.

Noshing on the crudo, I “eliminated” the Key West royal red ‘shrimp & grits’, the oak smoked pork posole, the smoked trout sandwich, the smoked brisket sandwich (on a brioche bun) and the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich. I was really tormented by not ordering the crispy Icelandic cod, which looked as if it was prepared with Vietnamese influence, my favorite flavors (nuoc cham, napa cabbage, toasted peanuts, mint, cucumbers).

And I’m still made at myself for not starting with the crispy fried pickles with green goddess aioli. For $5, and no doubt delicious with vodka & soda, I could not have gone wrong. How often in life will you get a chance to eat a crispy fried pickle? Plus I would have had some insight as to what was to come with Chef Red’s food – cucumbers and its cousin, pickles. They appeared frequently, usually unexpectedly.

So for the second plate, I went with a vegetarian dish, grilled eggplant.

It was out of sight, as we used to say in the groovy years.

(Oak roasted eggplant – quinoa & Kalamata olive salad, chermoula, goat feta, tzatziki, papadum)

The eggplant was meaty, slightly smoky and perfectly grilled. It actually ate like a steak, and for my first few bites that’s what I focused on. And who knew, that pickle chips would contrast so nicely with grilled eggplant, not to mention the crispy Papadum crackers from the Indian subcontinent. This was all good, but the real wow factor came into play when I got below the eggplant to the quinoa with Kalamata olive oil, the tzatziki (yogurt-based) and the slightly creamy goat feta, which was accented by the Chermoula (the reddish sauce to the right of the plate), a slightly tangy marinade typically used by cooks in Algeria, Libya, Morocco and Tunisia. The chilled rose (Gerard Boulay, a Sancerre Rose from the Loire Valley, $12) I drank with this dish was as good a complement as Bonnie Parker was to Clyde Barrow, though I was optimistic that my story would not end as badly as theirs did. 

By the time I finished the second plate, I had decided that the past hour or so was one of the most pleasurable 60 minutes of the year so far, with over 5 months to go! 

While my appetite may have been sated with these first two courses, I was hungry for more. And I could not pass up the braised lamb, since braising meat is probably my favorite way to eat pork (shoulder/butt), beef (ribs) and lamb, especially in winter when you can pair these foods with creamy polenta, risotto and mashed potatoes.

(Olive oil braised lamb leg – fruition farms crispy ricotta, English peas, pea shoots, pecorino, mint)

This dish was good – solid from start to finish, with a light and tasty sauce (from the melted ricotta) that called for a piece of bread to sop up (the bartender gladly obliged, bringing a side a toast though I only used half a slice). The lamb was tender, as expected, and the peas very fresh – as if it were still Spring and I was, in fact, in England. I drank a Terrazas Malbec, $15 from Mendoza, Argentina, thus proving that one can survive a great meal without a single California wine.

The lamb dish was delicious, though not as distinctive as my first two plates.

I might have ordered a fourth dish but I had an early morning with a train to catch for Aspen by 8 o’clock. As my 90+ year old father still says, “the best exercise you can do to keep the weight off is push yourself away from the table.”

And so I did, vowing to come back to Denver or better yet, go up to Boulder to eat Chef Rednikowski’s food again.